When it comes to bathroom remodels for older people, it’s not just about making things look nice. It’s about making a space that works when getting around isn’t as easy as it used to be. My years working with bathroom spaces have taught me that smart design can make all the difference between a bathroom that’s a daily struggle and one that provides true independence.
Most people don’t think about how their bathroom will work for them as they age until they’re faced with mobility issues. By then, the changes needed often feel rushed and stressful. For those planning a bathroom renovation, the team at Star Ceramics has worked on homes throughout Sydney suburbs like Cronulla, Hurstville, and Miranda, and they’ve seen firsthand how planning ahead can save both money and heartache.
Let’s walk through the eight most important design principles that make a bathroom work beautifully for older adults. These aren’t complicated changes, but they make a huge difference in daily life.
Design Principles Of Bathroom Remodel For The Elderly
When I look at a bathroom remodel for older adults, I focus on three main goals: safety, accessibility, and comfort. Each of the principles we’ll talk about tackles one or more of these goals. The good news? Many of these changes don’t cost much more than standard fixtures if you plan for them from the start. And they don’t have to look “institutional” either – today’s age-friendly design can be just as stylish as anything else.
Non-Slip Flooring
How this works: Falls are the number one cause of injuries for older adults, and bathrooms with their wet surfaces are particularly risky. Non-slip flooring creates friction even when wet, giving stable footing that prevents dangerous slips.
I recommend small format tiles with textured surfaces and lots of grout lines. The more grout lines you have, the more grip the floor provides when it gets wet. Porcelain tiles with a coefficient of friction rating of .60 or higher work really well. Vinyl flooring specially made for bathrooms is another great option that gives good grip and feels softer underfoot.
Watch out for glossy tiles – they might look pretty but they turn into skating rinks when wet. Also, avoid large format tiles with minimal grout lines. And don’t forget about the shower floor – that needs extra attention with specialized non-slip surfaces.
One trick I love is adding radiant flooring heating under whatever flooring you choose. It not only feels nice on older feet but also helps dry wet floors faster, cutting down on slip hazards.
Walk-In Shower or Tub
The bathroom entrance and exit points need special thought when remodeling for older folks. Traditional tubs with high sides force you to lift your leg way up and balance on one foot – a recipe for falls as you get older.
Thinking about execution: A curbless walk-in shower is hands down the best option. These zero-entry showers have no lip or barrier to step over, which makes them perfect for anyone with mobility issues or those using walkers or wheelchairs.
If someone really wants a tub, look at walk-in tub models with doors that seal tight. These let you walk in, sit down, and fill the tub while you’re already safely seated. The downside is waiting for them to drain before you can open the door to get out.
For the shower, built-in benches are super helpful – they let you sit down while washing, which is safer and less tiring. Make sure to position the shower controls where they can be reached from the bench without standing up.
Some helpful tips: add a handheld shower head on a sliding bar so it works for people of different heights or those who need to sit. And don’t forget about good drainage – a slight floor slope and a linear drain work way better than a center drain for wheelchair access.
Grab Bars and Handrails
Grab bars might not seem exciting, but they’re probably the single most important safety feature in a bathroom for older adults. They give you something solid to hold onto when moving around, sitting down, or standing up.
When I install grab bars, I don’t just slap them anywhere. They need to be where they’ll actually get used – near the toilet, in the shower, by the tub. And they have to be rock-solid, anchored into the wall studs or with special anchoring systems.
The old-school chrome grab bars looked like something from a hospital, but nowadays you can get them in all kinds of finishes and styles that match your bathroom fixtures. Some even do double duty as towel bars or toilet paper holders, so they blend right in with the design.
One mistake I see a lot is putting in those suction cup grab bars that stick onto the wall. Those are temporary at best and dangerous at worst. They can pop off without warning. Always go with permanently mounted bars that can support a person’s full weight.
The height and position really matter too. Most grab bars work best at about 33-36 inches from the floor, but this can vary based on the person’s height. In the shower, I like to install one horizontal bar for stability and one angled bar that helps with standing up and sitting down.
Comfort-Height Toilet
Standard toilets sit really low – about 15 inches from floor to seat. That height works fine when you’re younger, but for older knees and hips, it can be painful to lower yourself down and tough to stand back up.
Here’s how this idea works: Comfort-height toilets (sometimes called ADA-height or right-height toilets) sit about 17-19 inches off the ground. Those extra inches make a huge difference because they reduce the distance someone has to lower themselves. The seat ends up at about the same height as a standard chair, which feels more natural for most adults.
When choosing a comfort-height toilet, look for one with an elongated bowl rather than a round one. The longer shape provides better support and makes transfers from wheelchairs easier if that becomes necessary.
I always suggest adding grab bars on both sides of the toilet or at least on the side where the person tends to need more support. If wall-mounted grab bars won’t work with your bathroom layout, there are special toilet safety frames that attach directly to the toilet and provide armrests.
One thing to watch out for: if someone in the house is shorter (under 5’4″ or so), a comfort-height toilet might actually be less comfortable because their feet might not touch the ground properly. In those cases, a standard height toilet with really good grab bars might work better.
Adequate Lighting
Poor lighting in bathrooms is a big problem I see all the time, especially for older eyes that need more light to see clearly. Dark corners and shadows can hide tripping hazards and make everyday tasks harder.
How to execute good lighting: Layer different types of light instead of relying on just one overhead fixture. I start with good overall ceiling lighting – usually recessed LED lights that don’t create glare. Then I add task lighting around the mirror where people need to see what they’re doing.
One trick that works really well is adding motion-sensor night lights that automatically turn on when someone enters the bathroom at night. These prevent falls during those middle-of-the-night bathroom trips when turning on bright lights might be jarring.
For people with vision issues, creating contrast between different surfaces helps a lot. For example, having the toilet seat be a different color than the floor makes it easier to see where to sit down.
Avoid lights that cast weird shadows or create glare on tile floors, as these can be disorienting. And remember that older eyes often struggle with glare, so using frosted bulbs or fixtures with diffusers helps prevent that harsh direct light that can temporarily blind someone.
Natural light is awesome when possible, but make sure windows have adjustable blinds to control glare during different times of day.
Easy-to-Reach Storage
Thinking through this principle: Traditional bathroom storage often puts things either too high or too low for comfortable access as we age. Bending down to low cabinets or reaching up to high shelves increases fall risk and can be painful for arthritic joints.
The key is keeping everyday items within what I call the “comfort zone” – between waist and shoulder height. Pull-out drawers work way better than cabinets with doors because you can see everything inside without bending or reaching. I like to install medicine cabinets at a slightly lower height than usual, with the mirror positioned so it works both for standing and seated users.
When working with limited space, think about creative solutions like recessed niches in shower walls for shampoo and soap. These keep things right where they’re needed without cluttering up the shower floor or creating tripping hazards.
Open shelving can work well if it’s kept within that comfort zone height, and adding small lips to the edges prevents items from getting accidentally knocked off.
One mistake to avoid is installing towel bars too far from where they’ll be used. Nobody wants to step out of a shower dripping wet and walk across the bathroom for a towel – especially on a potentially slippery floor.
For clients with memory issues, clear containers or open storage can help them find what they need more easily. Sometimes I even add small labels to drawers as a helpful reminder of what’s stored where.
Lever-Style Faucets and Controls
Traditional round knobs on faucets and doors can be surprisingly hard to use for people with arthritis or limited hand strength. Trying to grip and turn these knobs can be painful and frustrating.
Lever handles solve this problem beautifully. They work with just a push – you can use the side of your hand, wrist, or even elbow if needed. This makes a huge difference for people with hand limitations.
For shower controls, I recommend thermostatic mixing valves that let you set the temperature separately from the water pressure. These prevent scalding and make adjustments much easier. The temperature dial can be set once and left alone, while a separate lever controls the water flow.
Touch-free faucets are another option that’s gotten much better and more reliable in recent years. These completely eliminate the need to grip or turn anything – just wave your hand under the sensor. The downside is they need batteries or electrical connections, which adds complexity.
One thing to check: make sure any new fixtures have clear markings for hot and cold. As simple as this sounds, many designer faucets skip these markings, which can be confusing and potentially dangerous.
For doorknobs, swap them out for lever handles throughout the bathroom. This small change makes a big difference in everyday use and doesn’t cost much.
Wide Doorways and Open Layout
The final principle focuses on making sure people can actually get into and move around the bathroom easily, especially if they use mobility aids now or might in the future.
How this works in practice: Standard doorways in older homes are often just 24″ wide – too narrow for walkers or wheelchairs. Widening the door to at least 32″ (ideally 36″) makes a huge difference. If you can’t change the door frame itself, sometimes switching to offset hinges can gain you an extra inch or two of clearance.
Inside the bathroom, think about turning radius – you need at least 5 feet of open space for someone in a wheelchair to turn around comfortably. This often means rethinking the whole layout during a remodel.
Wall-hung sinks without vanity cabinets underneath create knee space for seated users. They also look sleek and modern, so they’re a design plus too. Floating vanities that don’t go all the way to the floor are another good option that provides some storage while still allowing foot space for people standing at the sink.
One practical tip I always share: if you can’t widen all doorways due to structural limitations, prioritize the bathroom door first. It’s the one doorway that absolutely needs to remain accessible as someone ages.
Conclusion
Remodeling a bathroom with these eight principles in mind makes aging in place so much more doable. The beauty of these changes is that they work for everyone – not just older adults. A non-slip floor is safer for kids too. Lever handles are easier for everyone to use. Good lighting helps all eyes.
The best time to make these changes is before they’re urgently needed. Working them into a planned remodel is much less expensive and stressful than making emergency modifications after a fall or health crisis.
Remember that a well-designed bathroom for aging doesn’t have to look institutional or medical. Today’s fixtures and features can be stylish while still being practical. The goal is creating a space that works for you now and continues working as needs change over time.
When planning these updates, think about what specific challenges the user has today, but also consider what might become difficult in the future. The most successful bathroom remodels for aging in place are the ones you don’t have to redo again in five years because needs have changed.
